The Royal Jewels – Saheli Moti Panch Larhi Wa Saath Tukdi Yakhoot Wa Almas
The Jewels of the Nizams
The jewels of the Nizams of Hyderabad State comprise one of India's largest and most valuable collections, spanning from the early 18th to early 20th centuries. These ornaments were crafted in gold and silver, frequently adorned with enamel work and set with Colombian emeralds, diamonds from regional mines in Andhra Pradesh, Burmese rubies, spinels, and pearls from Basra and the Gulf of Mannar. The Nizams demonstrated a strong passion for pearls and precious stones, utilizing loose pearls, spinel beads, and emerald beads in various ways—sewn onto clothing and prayer rugs, incorporated into weapon handles, and used to embellish decorative boxes and functional items.
The Saheli Moti Panch Larhi
The 'Saheli Moti Panch Larhi' represents a particularly striking piece. This necklace features seven hexagonal panels containing rubies and diamonds in openwork settings, with a centerpiece displaying a pearl tassel suspended on five rows of pearls separated by ruby beads. The 84 rubies and 112 diamonds are set in open-back claw settings, likely of Burmese origin. The design exemplifies the Hyderabadi style, mimicking a flower garland with pearls graduated from larger center stones to smaller side pieces. This necklace style influenced European designers, particularly those at Cartier and Chaumet, who created similar pieces.
Kalasha's Interpretation
Kalasha Jewellery's piece K-GP-1143 draws inspiration from the Saheli Moti Panch Larhi. The design positions gold spheres where the original hexagonal panels appeared, highlighting emerald beads, with an accent tassel-like pendant. This adaptation serves as a standalone statement piece for contemporary wearers.
